Updated On: April 07, 2024 by 
Noha Nabil
For centuries, the Ottoman Empire cast a glittering spell on the world, and its legacy lives on in the dazzling artistry of Turkish jewellery. But beyond the echoes of sultans and sultanas, a new generation of designers has emerged, crafting pieces that transcend tradition and ignite the global stage.
Forget delicate filigree and predictable patterns. These five contemporary masters are redefining what it means to be Turkish jewellery. Prepare to be mesmerised by intricate metalwork dancing with ancient motifs, breathtaking gemstones reimagined in modern settings, and even a touch of rebellion against the expected.
This is just a glimpse into the dazzling world of Turkish jewellery design. Prepare to be surprised, inspired, and maybe even a little bit obsessed as we delve deeper into the lives and works of these five trailblazers, who are not just crafting exquisite jewels but reshaping the very essence of adornment.
Are you ready to be dazzled?
5 Turkish Jewellery Designers Shine Above and Beyond the Bazaar
Turkish jewellery designers have a rich history and tradition dating back to the Ottoman Empire. Their unique blend of Eastern and Western influences and exceptional craftsmanship have earned them a well-deserved place in the international jewellery industry.
Here are some of the most renowned Turkish jewellery designers who have left a lasting mark:
Sevan Biçakçı
Biçakçı’s pieces are renowned for their intricate detailing and captivating storytelling. They’re not just ornaments but miniature universes, often inspired by Ottoman motifs, Byzantine art, and his Armenian heritage. Each ring, pendant, or bracelet feels like a portal to a bygone era, infused with mystical allure and otherworldly charm.
From Apprentice to Star Jeweler
Born in 1972 in Istanbul’s Samatya district, Biçakçı’s artistic journey began at a young age. At 12, he was apprenticed to Hovsep Catak, a master jeweller in the Grand Bazaar.
This early exposure to traditional techniques and meticulous craftsmanship laid the foundation for his future success. After his mentor’s passing, Biçakçı honed his skills and eventually launched his own brand in 2002, quickly captivating the global market with his unique vision.
Where East Meets West
Biçakçı’s designs seamlessly blend Eastern and Western influences. He effortlessly incorporates precious metals and gemstones with micro-mosaics, miniature paintings, and even calligraphy.
This fusion of styles creates a captivating tension where ancient traditions find fresh expression in contemporary forms.
A Collector’s Dream
Owning a Biçakçı piece is akin to possessing a miniaturised masterpiece. His meticulous attention to detail and dedication to handcrafted artistry make each creation a collector’s dream.
From the intricate enamelwork on a ring to the hand-painted scenes adorning a pendant, every element speaks of his exceptional talent and dedication.
Beyond Jewelry
Biçakçı’s artistic reach extends beyond traditional jewellery. He has collaborated with renowned brands like Boucheron, and his designs have graced the red carpet, adorning celebrities like Rihanna and Beyoncé. His recent foray into luxury watchmaking demonstrates his versatility and constant push for creative boundaries.
A Legacy in the Making
Sevan Biçakçı is more than just a jewellery designer; he’s an artist who breathes life into history and tradition. His work is a testament to the enduring power of craftsmanship, imagination, and cultural heritage.
As he continues to captivate the world with his exquisite creations, there’s no doubt that Biçakçı’s name will be forever etched in the annals of jewellery design.
Milka Karaağaçlı
Founder of the beloved brand Kısmet by Milka, Karaağaçlı is known for her delicate and feminine designs. Her pieces often feature precious metals and stones set in minimalist settings. Kısmet by Milka has gained a loyal following among celebrities and fashionistas alike.
Where It All Started
Milka Karaağaçlı is a Turkish jewellery designer who founded the Kısmet by Milka brand in 2009. Her work is known for its elegant and timeless designs that combine traditional Turkish craftsmanship with modern sensibilities.
Karaağaçlı was born in Istanbul, Turkey, and studied jewellery design at the Istituto Marangoni in Milan, Italy. After graduating, she worked as a jewellery designer for several years before launching her own brand.
The Secret Behind Her Fame
Kısmet by Milka Jewellery uses fine materials like gold, diamonds, and gemstones. Nature often inspires designs with flowing lines and organic shapes. Karaağaçlı also experiments with different layering techniques to create unique and eye-catching looks.
Kısmet by Milka jewellery has been worn by celebrities and royalty alike, including Madonna, Naomi Watts, and Anne Hathaway. The jewellery brand is also sold in prestigious stores around the world, including Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, and Harrods.
Karaağaçlı is a strong advocate for women’s empowerment. She believes that jewellery should be a way for women to express their individuality and strength. The stories and experiences of women often inspire her designs.
In 2019, Karaağaçlı was awarded the “Lifetime Achievement Award” by the Turkish Jewelry Manufacturers Association. She is a leading figure in the Turkish jewellery industry and continues to inspire women around the world.
Awards
Here are some of the most notable awards and recognitions that Milka Karaağaçlı has received:
- Lifetime Achievement Award, Turkish Jewelry Manufacturers Association (2019)
- Emerging Designer of the Year, Turkish Jewelry Awards (2011)
- Jewellery News Asia Award for Best Designer, Jewellery News Asia (2013)
- The Couture Show Award for Best Designer, The Couture Show (2015)
Hraç Arslanyan
Hraç Arslanyan is a prominent Turkish jewellery designer renowned for the unique blend of Eastern and Western influences in his intricate and captivating pieces.
Here’s a glimpse into his remarkable journey and creations:
Early Life and Apprenticeship
Born in Istanbul in 1965, Arslanyan’s artistic journey began at a young age. He was introduced to jewellery-making by his uncle, Hagop Arslanyan, a master jeweller at the historic Zincirli Han in the Grand Bazaar. This exposure nurtured his passion for the craft, and he honed his skills through apprenticeship under his uncle’s tutelage.
European Exploration and Return to Roots
Driven by a thirst for knowledge and diverse perspectives, Arslanyan embarked on a journey across Europe in 1985. He immersed himself in the jewellery-making traditions of Vienna, Cologne, Amsterdam, Brussels, and Paris, absorbing new techniques and refining his artistic vision.
Establishing Mahreç and Defining His Style
Upon returning to Turkey in 1990, Arslanyan established his own workshop, aptly named “Mahreç,” meaning “workshop” in Ottoman Turkish.
This became the crucible where his signature style blossomed. He skillfully melded the rich heritage of Eastern craftsmanship with the modern sensibilities of Western design, creating timeless and contemporary pieces.
Hallmarks of Arslanyan’s Jewelry
Fusion of East and West: Arslanyan’s designs seamlessly blend elements of Ottoman motifs, Byzantine art, and Art Deco influences, resulting in a truly unique aesthetic.
Intricate Metalwork: His pieces showcase exceptional craftsmanship, with intricate metalwork techniques like filigree, granulation, and chasing, adding depth and texture.
Semi-Precious Stones: Arslanyan’s love for colour and vibrancy shines through his use of semi-precious stones like turquoise, opals, amethysts, and garnets, often complemented by diamonds and pearls.
Boutique Appeal: Arslanyan’s creations are meticulously handcrafted, resulting in limited-edition pieces with a distinct sense of exclusivity and artistry.
Recognition and Legacy
Arslanyan’s dedication to his craft and his captivating designs have earned him widespread recognition. He has garnered acclaim from international collectors, fashionistas, and art enthusiasts alike.
His work has been featured in prestigious exhibitions and publications, solidifying his position as a leading figure in the Turkish jewellery industry.
Beyond the Workshop
Arslanyan’s passion extends beyond his own creations. He actively mentors young aspiring jewellers, sharing his knowledge and expertise to preserve the rich legacy of Turkish jewellery making. He also collaborates with other artists and designers, pushing the art form’s boundaries and fostering a vibrant creative community.
Hraç Arslanyan’s story is one of artistic passion, cultural fusion, and unwavering dedication. Through his exquisite jewellery, he adorns individuals, bridges cultures, and celebrates the enduring beauty of handcrafted art.
As he continues to evolve and inspire, Hraç Arslanyan’s name will undoubtedly remain etched in the annals of Turkish jewellery history.
Zeynep Erol
Zeynep Erol is a renowned Turkish jewellery designer known for her expressive and unconventional pieces, often inspired by diverse cultures, philosophies, and personal experiences.
Her work has garnered international acclaim, showcased in prestigious exhibitions and worn by fashion enthusiasts and celebrities alike.
Here’s a closer look at Zeynep Erol’s artistic journey and impact:
Early Beginnings and Brand Foundation
Erol’s artistic journey began in 1989 at the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul, where she honed her skills and immersed herself in the vibrant world of traditional craftsmanship.
In 1996, she established Zeynep Erol Jewelry Design, marking the birth of her distinct design language and brand identity.
Over the past 30 years, she has held over 30 individual exhibitions, showcasing her evolving collections and captivating audiences with her creative vision.
Design Philosophy and Inspiration
Erol’s jewellery reflects her inner world, emotions, and philosophical reflections, often imbued with personal narratives and symbolism.
She draws inspiration from various sources, including folklore, mythology, nature, and even abstract concepts, weaving them into her designs uniquely and captivatingly.
Her pieces transcend mere adornment, becoming mini sculptures and wearable art, sparking conversations and evoking emotions.
Materials and Techniques
Erol excels at working with diverse materials, from precious metals like 18k gold and 950 sterling silver to diamonds and semi-precious stones.
She incorporates natural elements like pebble stones, pearls, feathers, tortoise shells, sandalwood, and ebony, adding a touch of organic beauty and texture to her creations.
Her intricate metalwork techniques, often featuring granulation and hand-hammering, add depth and dimension to her pieces, showcasing exceptional craftsmanship.
Signature Style and Collections
Boldness, unconventional shapes, and unexpected juxtapositions characterise Erol’s signature style. Her pieces are often statement-making yet retain a sense of elegance and sophistication.
Her collections are diverse and ever-evolving, reflecting her continuous artistic exploration.
Some notable examples include:
- “Turkish Delight”: Inspired by the iconic Turkish dessert, this collection features vibrant gemstones and playful shapes, evoking a sense of joy and indulgence.
- “Transformation”: This collection delves into themes of metamorphosis and change, featuring organic forms and fluid lines that symbolise personal evolution and growth.
- “Sculptural Jewelry”: Pushing the boundaries of traditional jewellery, this collection features pieces that resemble miniature sculptures, blurring the lines between wearable art and fine art.
Legacy and Recognition
Zeynep Erol has established herself as a leading figure in the Turkish jewellery industry, inspiring generations of young designers and leaving a lasting mark on the international scene.
Her work has been featured in prestigious publications, fashion shows, and museums worldwide, solidifying her position as a creative force to be reckoned with.
Erol continues to push creative boundaries, exploring new materials, techniques, and themes, ensuring her place at the forefront of contemporary jewellery design.
Yeşim Yüksek
Yeşim Yüksek is a Turkish jewellery designer who is known for her innovative and modern take on traditional Turkish motifs. She uses various materials, including precious metals, gemstones, and even recycled plastic.
The Start of a Legacy
Yüksek was born in Istanbul in 1964. She studied law at Istanbul University, but her passion for jewellery led her to pursue a career in design. In the early 1990s, she apprenticed with a master jeweller in İzmir, where she learned the traditional techniques of Turkish jewellery making.
Yüksek founded her own jewellery brand, Alef, in 2005. Various sources, including architecture, literature, and travel, inspire her designs. She often incorporates elements of traditional Turkish culture into her work, but she also experiments with new materials and techniques.
Not Your Typical Jewellery
Yüksek’s work has been featured in exhibitions around the world, including the Istanbul Jewelry Show, the Paris Jewelry Week, and the London Jewellery Week. She has also received numerous awards for her work, including the 2011 Excellence in Design Award from the American Gem Trade Association.
Yüksek is a strong advocate for sustainable jewellery. She uses recycled materials in many designs and is committed to working with ethical suppliers. She believes that jewellery can be a powerful social and environmental change tool.
Here are some of the key features of Yeşim Yüksek’s jewellery:
- Innovative and modern designs: Yüksek’s work is often described as being both contemporary and timeless. She is not afraid to experiment with new materials and techniques and always looks for new ways to push the boundaries of jewellery design.
- Influences of traditional Turkish culture: Yüksek’s work often incorporates elements of traditional Turkish culture, such as geometric patterns, calligraphy, and floral motifs. However, she always puts her own unique twist on these traditional elements.
- Use of recycled materials: Yüksek is a strong advocate for sustainable jewellery. She uses recycled materials in many designs and is committed to working with ethical suppliers.
Yüksek is a leading figure in the Turkish jewellery industry. Her work is innovative, modern, and sustainable and will continue to inspire and influence jewellery designers for years.
The Dazzling Rise of Turkish Jewelry Design
These are just a few of the many talented Turkish jewellery designers making their mark on the world. With their unique vision and exceptional craftsmanship, they will continue to inspire and delight jewellery lovers for generations.
